Well, I just thought about it and realize that I may have been suffering from anal cranial inversion. Of course there's a problem. There's still a hole where the shaft of the pop rivet was. I guess I don't know if that seals up water tight when you squeeze it down. This whole thing may not be the solution. Have to think this one over after some coffee, and maybe go down to the garage and check it out.

Hey guys-

I did some research on the net and found this great video showing how the pop rivet works. For a boat, the key is to buy a "closed end pop rivet" the closed end will seal out any water going through or around.

Check out this video - I still havent bought my pop rivets and gun yet - so I dont know how this will work yet for sure.

I did check the rivet size with an allen wrench tool set. Apparently if you have a rivet hole larger than 3/16th of an inch it requires a more expensive - I think electric operated - rivet tool. So, my allen wrench that was marked 3/16th - would NOT fit in the hole - so I am thinking I must be safe and have rivet holes that are less than 3/16th of an inch. I am just going to buy the rivet gun, a bunch of different sizes of rivets and see which rivet matches up best and then try to install it. My key last question for you guys - is this: Is it accurate to measure the hole using an allen wrench? Like I said the 3/16th allen wrench wouldnt fit into the hole - so I am hoping the rivet size must be smaller than 3/16th - but I want to be sure that I am using an accurate way to actually Measure this. Below is a link to the video - I am a visual guy - and this helps me alot to see how in the heck this works!

http://www.helicoil.com/media/swf/rebite4.swf

A drill bit would be better for measuring a hole. An allen wrench that says 3/16 is for a 3/16 screw. The head that the allen screw is much smaller then 3/16. I just did my boat and all the holes were just under 1/4 inch and the rivets were 3/16. I used 3/16 inch rivets that were 1/2 inch long and they were perfect to go through the two layers of Aluminum one of which was the reinforcement seal (dont know what the correct term is) I also used a below water sealer on all the rivets. I know this is not a long term fix but the motor is over 40 years old and the boat is almost that old. Only need a few more years out of it.

Alright - I found out that the closed end rivets are hard to come by. It looks like Granger may have them - but Northern tool, Home depot, menards and lowes did not have them.


Eurolarva - did you use closed end rivets or just the regular pop rivets??

One other thing I was thinking tonight as I was trying to figure all this out....since its just one rivet hole - why couldnt I find a small threaded screw that would screw on tight through the hole? I could put that liquid metal stuff around the screw before I screwed it on. Wouldnt that hold - and create a waterproof tight seal? Maybe through time it would work away and crack the aluminum bottom?? It just seems like an easy fix?

Any thoughts?? Thanks!!

I used regular pop rivets. I looked in granger and could not find the correct ones there. I talked to a boat repair place and they said the rivets they use require special tools and most places do not carry rivets. They also told me to use rivets instead of screws because screws do not have the shear strength that a rivet has. Two years ago I sheared off two rivets trailering my boat and was amazed how much water got in in such a short time. I bought some epoxy stuff from fleet farm in their boat stuff area. You break a piece off and work it with your fingers then cram it in the hole and rub it smooth. In seven minutes the stuff is as hard as a rock. It hasnt leaked since. T You might want to consider this for the quick fix till you can do the perm thing. My boat is a junk and not worth anything so I dont want to spend money on it. My last repair was the knee was busted so the lower part of my boat and the transom was not connected. I used 12 rivets below the water line with the sealent I also bought from Fleet Farm. Did not leak today however I am sure this is only a temp thing.

one other option is aircraft rivets, refered to as "cherry" rivets. these are "pop" style. aircraft talk is "blind fasteners" available in diameters by the 1/32 and length by the 1/16, countersunk or protruding heads. Aircraft Spruce and specialty is a common supplier. also a good location to purchase the solids if you decide to pull the floor. while it is true that a special gun is used, a regular variable nose manual gun will pull them (aluminum)through 3/16. just need the proper nose piece to accomadate the rivet stem like the kind with the 1/8, 5/32, 3/16 screwed into the handle for storage. also there are three common types of aluminum (aircraft) 2024,7075,6061, if you are going to replace with solids or cherry, use the correct material and install wet with sealant.

boe 757 - thanks - I will check out the place you menetioned. i did measure tonight with a drill bit - the hole is definetely 3/16 inch - but I have no idea how long of one I should get. To make matters worse - the rivet that is missing is on one of the "runners" on the bottom of the boat - so I imagine it is going to require a longer rivet than if it was just a rivet missing from the flat bottom of the boat. I was thinking I could bend a paperclip in a 90 degree angle and then insert the bent end, then pull down and mark how fardown the paperclip goes - and then buy a rivet thatlong?? does that make sense?

use the paper clip method, post the measurement, and I can send you the grip length

I used the wrong Company! Euro stated he could'nt find Closed End Blind rivets in Graingers catalog! I get my rivet supplies from 3 different Co. The right co. is Hanson Rivet & supply Co. Page c23.Aluminum rivet with Stainless steel mandrel,Closed end self sealing.

Well I tried to measure with a 90 degree paper clip - and the best I can tell was that it is 1/2 inch - which to me seems alot thicker than I had anticipated. The other weird thing is that when I rotated the paperclip around and tried to go 360 degrees with it - it would hit a little "wall" - I am wondering if this rivet is right where there is a little ledge or divider in the boat. So when they put the rivet in there it couldnt seal all the way down - and then slowly worked lose. ia m almost positive this is the same area where my boat had a leak before - i actually had the whole bottomr unner replaced ultimately - but I remmember it leaking in this place before - because I actully tried some epoxy around that area and the white residue is still there from before. I am almost tempoted to just try that putty stuff and shive that in the hole and if it hardens then maybe that would work - as I am now afraid that this rivet will just come lose again - but I think the best thing would be some sealant on a clsoed end pop rivet - I gues I will just have to guess on the right size and give it a try?

Just get a long closed end pop rivet or water proof rivet. The longer rivet won't hurt a thing because the head of the mandrel won't snap till it meets the material its securing.

Consider it like a bolt. You only need a 2" bolt to do the job neatly but you used a 3" bolt instead. In the case of the longer rivet, its under the floor so whose going to know?

After you get the rivet and install it you'll wonder what all the fuss was about.
If you want, use a spot of silicon in the hole before you pop the rivet in.

If you choose to buy those rivets from the place sparcebag recommended I will go in half on the purchase. I need 12 but I am gussing that you have a min you must buy. If you do post here and I will work out payment with you. That wall you are hitting is what I believe is called a gunnel. It is like an upsided down u with mounting flanges on it. It is what your floor is attached to on the boat.

Do what surface tension said.

Hallbergs in Wyoming, MN sells them and they term them leak proof pop rivets either way they'll know what your talking about.

I wouldn't use a bolt or an epoxy. Go with the rivet and a bit of silicone. Acetoxy if you can find it or an aluminum window silicone II from GE is best but regular window silicone will work.

Leak proof rivets and the gun are definitely the way to go.

However, I always have a couple tubes of JB Weld on hand. I have patched small holes in aluminum as well as a transom seam that was leaking on a Canada fishing trip. Temporary fixes of course but it kept me fishing instead of bailing water.

If you decide to use aircraft (cherry-max) the correct size would be a 6-9 from the 1/2 inch measurement you posted. the correct length is important. 6-32 diameter by 9-16 length. I have not repaired any boats, only aircraft, but please understand if the length is not correct these rivets will be loose. also I am using the measurement for a protruding head, if the rivet is countersunk the length will be different.