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Yes a homeowner can do their own plumbing.

Roofer, I guess I'm one of the "rich and lazy" guys. My roof got totaled last year and I'm not even going to think about doing it myself.

"If you are going to run more than one GFCI on the same circuit you DO NOT feed the second one from the protected side of the first one. Now if you have regular receptacles between them it gets tricky"

Ok I have a 20 amp circuit to my attached garage with 12 ga wire. First receptacle is GFCI (1) and then a regular (2)loaded off of it and another regular (3) off of that.....then another GFCI (4) loaded off of regular (#3)......there are then two more regulars (4 and 5) loaded off the GFCI (#4)...

First off, did that make any sense and secondly is it correct or is it a problem? It has been that way since I moved it but would like to correct it if wrong. Thanks.

Doesn't mean you are rich or lazy. Just means you have insurance on your house to pay for it.

Sorry if I hijacked the thread.

As far as the homeowner and the plumbing....I was talking new construction.

I checked and my 26gal Husky compressor is a 120 volt / 15 amp.
I have 8 open slots in my panel, but my basement is unfinished, and I am thinking of now running a new panel to the shed instead.

After receiving all this feedback, I think this is going beyond my comfort zone here. Any ballparks on how much it might cost to run power from the meter to a panel in a shed / garage?

Anyone live in Sherburne County MN or the Big Lake MN Area is an electrician?

You might want to put your compressor on it's on circut see's how it will be going on & off alot more then your other tools.most require a 20 amp breaker. at least thats what was told to me by a sparky.

I'm assuming a shed would fall under the same heading as a detached garage. Code says you have to have 20 amp circuits in a detached garage in lieu of 15's as you would in your house. [20 amp breakers and 12 guage wire]

I've been watching this thread for a while. Its been interesting to relate the posts to the work we just finished in my garage and connecting it to my house.

There are lots of opportunities to make installs that work but don't fall into current code. It changes enough to seek out those who know what they're talking about.

Some things would help to know.

What amp service do you have to your home.
What is your total load now.
How many circuits will you need to finish your basement.

You have space for 8 additional breakers. You'll use two to run power(220)to your shed which sounds more like a shop then shed.

You want to finish off your basement. Depending on what your doing there will determine the amount of circuits you'll need.

If its a den and and bedroom your fine. If you start adding a hot tub and bathroom then things might be getting close and as I said depending on what amp service you have you might want to
go from a 100 to 200.

In the end you'll choose a dia wire according to what you'll be running in your shop. From a new 220 breaker in your panel you'll run 220 out to your shed. That wire size is determined on what you plan on running in your shed. The breaker amp/size protects the wire between the house and shed. The new panel and one in your home will be grounded together.

Inside the shed you'll have an other panel(bonding screw removed) with the power going to the main breaker. For all that matters that could be a 100 amp panel because the feed is protected with the appropriate size breaker in your home.


You can't just feed your shed off the meter. For one reason the line running to your house is rated for the size of the panel by its main breaker, so you can't go beyond that. Secondly you can't run an unprotected line to your shed.

Just like your home you'll have large draw items like your compressor on its own circuit. If you can switch the compressor to 220 then by all means to that.