How many times have you been tooling on down the road, headed to your favorite lake on opening day, only to see a number of fisherman stuck on the shoulder with a trailer break down?

99% of the time these problems could have been avoided by simply going through a routine maintenance schedule. The most prevalent problem seem to be a burned out bearing and a close second seems to be a flat tire with no spare in site. Let's go back to the bearing.

Do yourself a favor and pull and repack before you have problem on the road. This process isn't so complicated and can be done by most with only a few basic tools. You will need a jack stand, jack, hammer, large screwdriver and punch, block of hardwood and cleaning solutions with brush. It is always a good idea to tear the hubs down and extract the bearings for inspection in the fall so any water in the grease does not rust or pit the bearings or raceways.

So, let's get going. After loosening the lug nuts, jacking the trailer up and correctly placing a jack stand under the frame or axle, apply a wheel chock to the other side and pop off the outer dust cap or bearing buddy.

Pull the cotter pin and remove nut and thrust washer. Next, remove entire hub from axle and extract outer bearing and drop in a clean pan with a cleaning solvent purchased at the auto store. Now turn the hub over and carefully remove inner dust seal with a large screwdriver by working around the entire perimeter equally. It is easier to use a seal puller and sometimes these can be rented from an auto parts store.

After this has been accomplished extract the inner bearing and drop in cleaning solution. Next, inspect the raceways for pitting or deep scratches. Then clean the bearings and inspect them by spinning them and checking for pits and excessive wear. Replace the bearings and raceways if you think they might be bad.

If replacing raceways, use a large screwdriver and a hammer. Start by inserting the screw driver or punch into the center of the hub and against the back edge of the raceway. Then work around the edge by hitting the end of the screwdriver or punch with a hammer and gradually pound it out. Repeat this for the other raceway. Reverse the process but use a block of hard wood (oak or cherry works well) that will fit inside of the hub. Carefully tap the new raceway into place in an equal manner (rotating the block of wood) until it is seated properly.

Next step can be as messy as you want it to be. You can chase down a bearing packer (another one of those special tools) or get a sandwich size zip lock bag. If you go with the bag, drop in a golf ball size wad of high speed bearing grease along with the bearing and zip bag shut. Start squishing the grease in and around the bearing. Try to rotate the outer around the inner portion of the bearing. Repeat this for the other bearing.

Next install the inner bearing into the backside of the hub and complete the installation by installing the inner dust seal. Use a block of wood and hammer and carefully tap this into place in an equal manner.

Now you can install the hub onto the axle and add a little grease inside. Then install the outer bearing, washer and nut. I like to tighten the nut down with a wrench, spin the tire and loosen the nut enough for free rotation of the wheel. Now insert the cotter pin through the hole in the axle and spread each end apart around nut. I'm a firm believer in using bearing buddies and after installation, pump grease through these according to the instructions.

This may sound like a long process but after you complete one side you will find it's a breeze to do the other side. Especially if one does it in the garage instead of along the shoulder of the road. It wouldn't hurt to take these tools with on a long trip. I have been in Canada with relatives and friends, a bearing burns out on one of their trailers and everyone is standing around scratching their head. You can look like a hero and save everyone from camping along the roadside for a day or so.

While your at it you may as well inspect the tires and spare tire and if you don't have a spare, GET ONE!

Make this a part of your fall and spring routine and by doing so, you can save yourself time and aggravation, leaving more time to be on the water.

Drive carefully and good fishing to ya!

River Walleye Tackle

The Tackle Box

Nagels Live Bait
(507) 334-8341
2030 NW 7th St
FARIBAULT MN 55021
MAP

Faribault Bait & Tackle
1935 NW 7th St
FARIBAULT MN 55021